The many faces of Chilean Pinot Noir

I’ve been chasing that elusive big and bold Pinot Noir ever since I returned from Burgundy over the summer. Eager to explore as much wine as possible, I took advantage of my WSET Diploma Weekly Bulletin and signed up to a Chilean Pinot Noir Masterclass.

Can this New World expression stand-up to my Burgundian highs?

On the day, I had some nerves as I didn’t know quite what to expect. I was welcomed with a flight of eight wines. I sent a picture to a Chilean Friend who replied “Nice!!! Cono Sur”. I’ll admit I’ve never heard of them, but they are the third largest Chilean wine exporter and known for their premium Pinot Noir.

In 1999 the launched they the Pinot Project which aimed to combine traditional wine making methods with New World technology. With the support of Martin Prieur, of Burgundy fame, they selected appropriate terroirs and optimised vineyard management practices. The operation has expanded in recent years when in 2009 they built a 530,000-litre capacity cellar especially for premium pinot noir.

Chile is a fascinating wine making region. First they escaped the destruction of Phylloxera, perhaps due to the defence supplied by its natural borders; East there are the Andes Mountains, Atacama Desert to the North, Pacific Ocean to the West and Cold waters flowing up from Antartica. Most importantly there is the moderating impact of the Humboldt current, cooling the climate enough to retain high acidity. Paired with long sunshine hours mean that the grapes can reach full aroma and flavour development.

The masterclass was held by Patrick Schmitt MW and Matias Rios of Cono Sur. Cono Sur - a play on “Connesieur” - make sustainable, organic and affordable wines at all price points. The focus was on their Pinot Noir range but they also make other wines including aromatic styles like Riesling, Gewurzstraimer and Sauvignon Blanc.

The Pink Ones

Both wines had fantastic clear colour, the Bicicleta Pinot Noir Rose with a tad more pink while the Organic Pinot Noir Rose gave hint of orange. Bright notes of fresh red fruits; strawberries and raspberries. The Organic had more complexity with a floral character of white flowers and texture on the tongue.

The Approachable Ones

The Bicicleta Pinot Noir and Organic Pinot Noir presented a fruit forward style, ripe red fruits, cherry, raspberry, red plum with a richness extending to black cherry. The amount of tannins surprised me, very ripe and chewy. The Organic had that earthiness you would expect and some noticeable oaky aromas.

The Difficult Ones

These grapes are now grown in San Antonio having moved from Casablanca Valley (the Ocio 2018 was produced here, but the case was still in transit so couldn’t try it!). Pommard clones have been planted and you can get a real sense of the Burgundian heritage in these wines.

Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 - red fruits but with hints of richer black fruits coming through and complemented by oak aromas. The tannins were very soft and well integrated.

20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2022 - similar expression with pronounced red fruits, forest fruits and oaky notes, overall more delicate but just as ripe with well integrated tannins.

Ocio 2021, very concentrated red and black fruits with tannins to match. Hints of dried cherries, a little bit of tobacco and forest floor earthiness.

Ocio 2022, equally pronounced, more primary red fruits, vanilla, cloves with a hint of spice. Lots of tannins.

I was taken aback by the amount of structure in the Ocios - comparable to cru level Burgundy. They would benefit from time in the bottle and I would love to revisit them in 5-10 years.

Of these wines only the Bicicleta Pinot Noir and 20 Barrels Pinot Noir are available in the UK (£7.25 and £19.00 at Tesco). This is a crime (and potential opportunity for importers) as the Ocios offer fantastic value for a premium Pinot Noir that could rival Burgundy on a wine list and tempt budget conscious consumers.

I feel we’re in a Golden age for wine. Viticultural knowledge and wine technology is at a peak and is constantly evolving. This gives vignerons all the necessary tools to make the best possible wine given the constraints of their terroir. The quality gap between the Old World and the New World continues to narrow. Empowering wine lovers to explore new regions, producers and experience exceptional wine!

The Wines

1. Bicicleta Pinot Noir Rose 2025; Appellation: Chile; ABV: 12.5%
2. Organic Pinot Noir Rose 2025; Appellation: Bio Bio Valley; ABV: 12%
3. Bicicleta Pinot Noir 2023; Appellation: Chimbarongo; ABV: 13% (£7.25 - Tesco)
4. Organic Pinot Noir 2024; Appellation: San Antonio, Bio Bio, Chimbarongo; ABV: 13%
5. Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023; Appellation: San Antonio Valley; ABV: 14%
6. 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2022; Appellation: San Antonio Valley; ABV: 14% (£19.00 - Tesco)
7. Ocio 2021; Appellation: San Antonio Valley; ABV: 14%
8. Ocio 2022; Appellation: San Antonio Valley; ABV: 14%